相撲 Sumo Grand Tournament - Tokyo 東京
We didn't know it at the time we bought our flight tickets to Tokyo, but September was a good time to attend a Sumō Grand Tournament at the Tokyo National Sumō Hall - Ryogoku Kokugikan. Every year there are six grand tournaments: January in Tokyo, March in Osaka, May in Tōkyō, Julyin Nagoya, September in Tokyo, and November in Fukuoka. Like most people, I heard about Sumo since I was a child, but I didn't really know about the fascinating rituals that I was about to witness.
When we arrive in the morning at the National Sumō Hall, everything was in Japanese and we had no idea where to go to get the tickets that we'd bought online.
Because we saw a huge line of people waiting, we assumed that they were waiting to buy tickets but after several minutes waiting and no-one moving, we asked two girls standing in front of us if this was the line to get tickets. The answer we received was unexpected - they both stared at us like we were aliens, with their faces expressing both chock and surprise at what we assumed was because we didn't speak japanese. That was a very funny moment!! We eventually figured out that all these people lining-up outside the Hall were in fact fans and groupies ready to wait the whole day to get the chance to see their idols!
A moment I really enjoy watching was the group ring-entering ceremony (dohyō-iri) at the beginning of a new round, when sumo wrestlers are wearing ceremonial aprons over their loincloths. Then each confrontation starts with an elaborate ritual which includes a lot of stretching and posturing that is followed by an intense and really short bouts - sometimes only a few seconds!
The winner of a bout would be either the first rikishi (sumō westler) to force his opponent to step out of the ring or to touch the ground with any part of his body other than the bottom of his feet.
During the whole day, the crowd would express its support, satisfaction or disappointment in a pretty loud way and I loved how passionate the japanese can be about Sumō!
Sumō originated in Japan and still today it remains the only country where it is practiced professionally. It has been existing for century through various different forms, although Sumō as practice today is considered to be a modern martial art (gendai budo).
Sumō wrestlers are traditionally renowned for their great body mass, and there are no weight division. Because we didn't know that, imagine our surprise to see a westlers being rather skinny (but very muscular) and facing an opponent almost twice his size. The bout was longer than usual and last few minutes, and eventually saw the victory of the smaller rikishi who demonstrated a great technique! Many ancient tradition have been preserved in the ceremonial aspect, even outside the arena. The way sumo westlers live is ritualized and surrounded by rules, with most westlers required to live in communal training stables. (*see my post about Sumo traditional clothing)
Attending a sumō tournament was pricey but priceless as it was a once in a lifetime kind of experience that was well worth-it. I really recommend it if you have the chance to be in Japan at the good time! There is also a small Sumō Museum located in the Kokugikan, and in case you are missing the tournament season, you can catch a training session and witness the westlers practising in one of the sumo stables.
For more informations about sumō tournaments and where the stables are located, you can check the following site: www.sumo.or.jp/en/index To book ringside, box or arena tickets from abroad, visit buysumotickets.com or you can purchase tickets directly at the Sumō Hall, but you will have to show up really early.
